As the temperature starts to fall and winter approaches stews come into their own. They are a versatile way of cooking that make the most of much of what is in season at this time of year.
Stews, in some form, feature prominently in the cuisines of many nations. From highly spiced, fragrant affairs in Malaysia, Vietnam and Japan, to the meat-laden hearty offerings from South America. In Turkey stews are widely available in Esnaf Lokantas, tradesman's canteens, where workers can eat homely meals for next to nothing. In France they have Beef Bourguignon, in Hungary they have Goulash, in Poland there is Bigos and throughout the Arab world there are many versions of tharid.
Here stews have traditionally been used as a frugal way of making the most of cheaper cuts of meat like oxtail and scrag end. They also tend to feature the more robust winter root vegetables that store well and cost very little. Pulses, barley and pasta add heart and substance, thickening potentially watery broths.
Stews have wonderfully restorative properties; they warm and comfort like few other meals can. They can also be left on the stove for hours in a single pot, making them very light on labour.
With a bit of imagination very humble ingredients can be lifted; stews are definitely more than the sum of their parts. Here swede, onion, butternut squash, carrot, yellow lentils and pearl barley are bought to life with Urfa chilli, sumac and thyme.
Urfa chilli comes from the town of Sanliurfa in eastern Turkey where darker, almost black chillis are dried in the sun and then sweated at nigth before being ground into dark sticky flakes. Urfa chilli has a moderate heat and a deep, almost smokey taste, it works very well in stews. It is also great in salads, on roasted meat and in tomato sauces. Sumac is a Turkish spice made from the small red berries of the Sumac shrub. It is a great spice that adds a tangy, warm depth to dishes. In London (especially in Hackney and Haringey) both are widely available in Turkish shops. Sumac can be found in some supermarkets and is well worth finding. The Urfa chilli in this recipe can be replaced with red chilli flakes.
A Simple Autumn Stew
Half of a small butternut squash
Quarter of a large swede
1 large white onion
Half a dozen or so Chantenay carrots (or 2 'normal' carrots)
1 cup of pearl barley
1/2 cup of yellow lentils
About 100g of spaghetti
1 tablespoon of sumac
1 tablespoon of Urfa chilli
1/2 teaspoon of a seasalt
a few large sprigs of thyme
a handful of sage
a handful of parsley
1 large clove of garlic
3. Next add the thyme leaves, chopped sage, Urfa chilli, chopped garlic, salt and sumac. Cook for a few more minutes on a medium heat until the vegetables start to colour.
4. Add the lentils and partially cooked barley and cover in a good amount of cold water. Bring to the boil and then reduce the heat and allow it to simmer for around 45 minutes.
5. When you are ready to eat bring the stew back to the boil, break the spaghetti into smaller strands and add to the stew. Stir and allow to simmer for about 10-15 minutes. Once the spaghetti is cooked, chop the parsley and add it just before serving so it retains it's colour. Adjust the seasoning and serve.
